Weaving
From ancient times cloth has been woven on handlooms and fashioned into a variety of different patterns and textures in silk, wool and cotton. Different regions have their own styles and color schemes. Ikat is just one method of weaving where the warp and weft are both tie-dyed before weaving to create designs on the finished fabric. Clarity and intricacy of the woven pattern depends on the precision of tying the yarn.
Tie and dye
Also known as ‘bandini’, is one of the earliest techniques of ornamentation. The cloth is tied tightly in bunches and patterns and dyed. Tied areas prevent the penetration of dye. The uneven shapes and irregular shading gives the fabric a vitality and character of its own. ‘Bandini’ may be done on silk, cotton or wool.
Printing
Hand block printing on cloth is done in all parts of the country. Wooden blocks are hand carved with a variety of designs, from traditional to contemporary. The blocks are then dipped in dye which may be made with natural materials (madder root for red, indigo for blue, turmeric for yellow and iron for black) and then applied on the cloth. It may be direct printing, resist printing or discharge printing which gives the fabric different qualities and visual appeal.
Kalamkari
Is a traditional and ancient art form from South India, and was predominantly used in temples to depict stories in the form of narrative panels. It derives its name from Kalam meaning Pen, and Kari meaning work, literally Pen-work. It is hand painting as well as block printing with vegetable dyes. Although it is a complex and time-consuming technique, the designs and the final effect of the textiles are simply stunning. Kalamkari patterns are made into blocks and are often printed with vegetable dyes to create the same effects in a less time-consuming way.
Embroidery
A wealth of stitches, motif and design spreads across regions all over the country, each tribe or community practicing its own typical style. Peasant women embroider intricate designs depicting animals, birds, trees or geometric forms in vibrant colors and patterns creating dramatic effects. Very often the multitude of different stitches used are embellished with minute mirrors to enhance their beauty.
Applique
Was used extensively in Western India for making tents and covers for camels and cattle. Today the traditional motifs, geometric or from nature, are used on a variety of fabrics made for everyday use.